Mazona 5" Chimney Closure/Register Plate Kit 950mm x 400mm

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B. You can bust through the metal somewhere within the hole with an old screwdriver or chisel, and then use aviation snips what is the method (at the top exterior of the chimney) one uses to support the weight of the liner and do you have any photos of this? Is there some type of "collar" you clamp to the insert with "ears" on both sides that you support on the outer edges of the liner?

This plate must be made of a solid, non-combustible material. These are often referred to as a closure or register plate but there is a difference between the two. You should have something that looks like the picture above (without my colleague in the picture unless he has been moonlighting). The left, right and rear of the recess are lined with cement board and a dangling chimney liner is present. As I have suggested in the smooth-lining section you can, if you wish, fit the closure plate before the liner goes in, and even before the wall-lining (just adapt the instructions as required). The Roxul caused a smell as it first heated up, but this seems to be a one time occurrence. I’m pleased with the results of just the insulation, which slow down the heat loss. I’m thinking the metal plate will “air seal” the opening.

Sealing a Chimney Causes More Problems Than it Solves.

Repeat this step along the line representing measurement #2 (fireplace rear, in the example, 16” from front of sheet metal and then 14” and 15” on each side.) A closure plate does not need an access hatch for sweeping as the chimney can be swept either via the stove or through a removable sweeping plate on the stove pipe.

Insert plate up around pipe and fasten using masonry nails into mortar joints on side and rear – seal against fireplace with silicone and against pipe (if needed) with furnace cement. The attic scenario does not compare because you cannot have a sealed attic- there are always sources of airflow, and sources of humid air in an attic. It is essentially a cosmetic addition and can also reduce the loss of heat into a chimney that is lined with flexible flue liner. Mark the center of measurement #1 in the center of this line, so there is enough room on both sides for total plate plus 1” extra on all side.

How to choose and measure liner

So I cant say I'm too happy with his solution. Problem is he tells me "Thats how everyone does it""Its the industry standard". Open and close the door on a cheap Chinese stove. Then open and close the door on a DG stove, Arada stoves, Woodford stoves, Hamlet stoves or Saltfire stoves. You’ll understand the difference. change that to 3x for chimney locations within the building structure and 2x for chimneys exposed to exterior. The ramifications of this change, Measuring from this center line and on the line 1” in from the front, mark at 1/2 the measurement #1 in both directions (in the example, we would use 18” from each side of the line. Then make another mark at 1” past that line (or 19” from the center line). In either instance of a fireplace balloon or a glass door, you’ll have to measure your fireplace! The DIY Route

Cut on the larger line (including 1” flange), notch all four corners and fold down the 1” flange at about a 60 degree angle. So I ask you my fellow wood stove users what do you think? As I'm not happy about this solution and I've already found fibers on top of the stove from the Inswool so I know its got to be in the air. The EPA requires re-certification every 5 years. In VC case, the non cat intrepid would not meet the EPA phase II regs, Before the closure plate design commences I usually connect my “adaptor” to the bottom of the chimney liner (adaptors can have differing lengths of nose and have two methods of attaching to the liner – bolts or self tappers). If using self tappers they will pass through the liner and both walls of the adaptor (choose a length so they only protrude a few mm into the inside surface of the adaptor). Better still buy our adaptor with captive wing nuts.

The round circles are “dri wall adhesive” and the smooth white area is board. Dabs flatten when board is pressed against them When you cut out your hole you can afford to have it a reasonable size. As long as it is smaller than the square and there is material left for the four screw holes to work then all is good. By cutting out draughts, you can keep your home nice and cosy. You will also use less heating, which is a win win: reducing your bills and helping the planet. The climate is changing due to emissions of greenhouse gases resulting from human activity, and heating buildings currently accounts for more than a third of the UK’s emissions. A fireplace can lose energy: The chimney exhausts heat from the fireplace. This carries air from inside your home outward, causing your home to lose energy (heat and A/C). Drafts drive up the cost of cooling and heating in your home. Reach up the through the hole in your closure plate (you did make a hole I hope - 1" larger diameter than your flue pipe) and grab the vitreous pipe and pull it down through the hole and down to and onto the stove. Do not forget to slide your 9″ sealing plate around the pipe when you do this – in readiness for screwing it up to your closure plate. It is the sealing plate that hides the gap between the flue pipe and the slightly over-large hole.

Before we go any further let’s first make sure we understand the difference between a closure plate and a register plate (both seal off the chimney from the room and are the ceiling above your recess). Lay out on piece of sheet metal – layout from center and leave enough room for a 1” extra flange around actual measurements. I wanted to know if there was a more permanent alternative? Maybe a register plate type fitting with a vent for ventilation? I've tried searching on-line and putting the job on mybuilder.com and ratedpeople.com but have had no response... not really sure where else to go. Note also extra inspection hatches also aid fitting and inspection (only possible on larger closure plates and no good if adding insulating beads, ( insulating a liner I do not advise as a rule). But I can't find any information as to WHY one might do this. Can someone shed some light on the situation please? I'm trying to determine if this is necessary (or at least beneficial) for my situation.We will look at these two scenarios separately but if you are a number 2 ;-), then I would still read the instructions aimed at the number 1’s as a lot if this is relevant. A closure plate is used when a chimney liner, containing flue gases, is present. The closure plate is therefore only required to seal the chimney for cosmetic reasons, to stop soot old soot falling on the stove but also to stop heat disappearing up the chimney and being wasted. If a closure plate developed a fault (e.g.hole) smoke could NOT enter the room as the smoke is contained in a chimney liner. Adaptors have various lengths of “nose”. A long-nose adaptor can be useful as it adds "telescopicity" to the system (I think I just made up a word).